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ABC 40, October 13, 2009

Ancient crop attempts a comeback in Western Mass.

By Eric Fishe

View Article on ABC 40

V-One Vodka

Paul Kozub, owner of V-One Vodka, indulges in some of his own smooth product at Max's Tavern. Reminder Publications photo by Katelyn Gendron

SHADLEY, Mass. (abc40) -- Wheat is something most people enjoy in one form or another everyday. It's a vital food staple in the world, and a large portion of it comes from the Central U.S. However, some bussiness owners and farmers would like to see more of it come from Western Mass.

"We're definitely in the experimental phase, and we're learning what works," says Alan Zuchowski, owner of Lazy Acres Farm in Hadley.

In the past two years, Alan has been testing out different varieties of wheat. One of those is spelt, an ancient form of wheat that's been around for over 3,000 years.

"I like the concept of locally gornw, use what we produce here as much as possible," says Zuchowski.

A 9 acre plot of winter wheat can be seen poking out of the ground on Bay Road in Hadley right now. But it's not just for show. Some businesses are already looking to use the crop for their products.

"It was love at first sight, or first taste I should say," says Paul Kozub, owner of V1 Vodka.

Kozub produces the only vodka in the world made from spelt. Just a year ago he tried growing it in Hadley, and had success. Now he's looking to expand the effort.

"More and more I want to include more local things in V1, and someday I'd like to have all the organic spelt wheat grown here," says Kozub.

In Northampton, Hungry Ghost Bread is also involved in the local wheat movement. They even give out seeds each year to any customer interested in growing it themselves. They compare results, and find out which varities are working best.

"Our wheat was coming from thousands of miles away, trucked to North Carolina, then milled, sent up to New Hampshire, and finally down to us," says Cheryl Maffei, co-owner of Hungry Ghost Bread. "It was labelled organic, but that's not really organic."

Since the whole project is in the start-up phase, everything about it costs more. So if you're looking to pick up products made with local wheat, expect to dip a little further into your pocketbook.

"We do charge more for it, because we pay more for it, and then it gets funnelled back into the program" says Maffei.

The crop flourished in New England in colonial days, and as recently as 100 years ago. But once transportation of crops became easier, the Great Plain states dominated the industry. The weather is more consistent in the central U.S., and farms in New England could no longer compete.

abc40 asked Zuchowski if wheat could become a new cash crop for the area. He says no, but there is a benefit to local farmers.

"If we could get out of crops that are often plauged by disease and use wheat as a rotational crop, it would be good," says Zuchowski.

Where to find V-One Vodka!